The Professional RV Inspection Checklist: A Technician's Guide

I have performed thousands of RV inspections over the years, and I can tell you the difference between a mediocre inspector and a great one almost never comes down to knowledge. It comes down to process. The inspectors who consistently catch problems are the ones who follow a repeatable, systematic workflow every single time, regardless of how many units they have already seen that week.

This checklist is not a consumer-friendly overview. It is a working technician's reference organized by system, with the diagnostic techniques and common failure points that matter when you are standing in front of a unit and your name is going on the report. If you are using WanderWise RV Reports, you already have 190+ inspection points built into your workflow. This article goes deeper on the reasoning behind those points and the gotchas that experience teaches you.

Before You Start: Setting Up Your Inspection

Your inspection starts before you touch the RV. Take five minutes to prepare properly and you will avoid backtracking later.

• VIN decode first: Scan or manually enter the VIN before anything else. Knowing the exact make, model, year, and GVWR tells you what systems to expect and what known issues to watch for. WanderWise decodes VINs automatically, but even if you are working manually, run the VIN through NHTSA's decoder before you pick up a flashlight.
• Ask the owner three questions: Has this unit had any water damage? Have any systems been repaired recently? Are there any known issues? Their answers will not change your inspection, but they tell you where to look harder.
• Connect to shore power and fill the fresh tank: You need both 120V AC and pressurized water available to test systems properly. If you cannot get shore power, note it in your report and document which systems could not be fully tested.
• Establish your path: I work the same pattern every time: roof first, then exterior clockwise, then interior front to back, then underneath. Pick a pattern and never deviate. Consistency prevents missed items.

Roof and Exterior Envelope

Water intrusion is the number one destroyer of RVs. Your roof and exterior inspection is where you earn your fee, because this is where most significant findings originate.

Roof

• Membrane condition: Walk the entire roof surface systematically. On EPDM rubber roofs, look for chalking (normal aging) versus cracking and checking (needs attention). On TPO, look for seam separation and heat welding failures. On fiberglass, check for stress cracks and gelcoat crazing, especially around the front cap transition where road vibration concentrates.
• Sealant inspection: This is where beginners rush. Every single penetration needs individual evaluation. Check Dicor self-leveling sealant for cracking and separation from the substrate. Pay special attention to the sealant around A/C gaskets, vent pipe boots, antenna bases, and the front-to-roof cap transition. Sealant that has pulled away even 1/16 of an inch is a leak path. Press the sealant with your thumbnail to check for brittleness.
• A/C units: Rock each unit gently to check mounting bolt security. Inspect the rubber gasket between the unit and the roof for compression and deterioration. Check the shroud for UV damage and cracks. Remove the interior filter and inspect the evaporator coils for mold or debris.
• Vent fans and skylights: Operate every roof vent. Check the crank mechanism for smooth operation. Inspect plastic vent lids for UV yellowing and brittleness. Maxxair and Fantastic Fan units should spin freely without grinding. Check the interior garnish ring for water stain evidence.

Sidewalls

• Delamination testing: Press firmly on fiberglass sidewalls every 12 to 18 inches in a grid pattern. Good lamination feels solid and returns a firm response. Delamination feels spongy, and you may hear a hollow sound when you tap. Pay extra attention below windows, around entry doors, and near the roof-to-wall junction. These are the areas where water enters first.
• Window seals: From outside, inspect every window frame seal for separation, cracking, and shrinkage. From inside, check for water stains on the wall below each window. Older putty tape installations are especially prone to failure. Check the weep holes at the bottom of window frames for debris blockage.
• Compartment doors: Open every single one. Check gaskets for compression set and cracking. Look at the interior walls and ceiling of each compartment for water staining, rust, or mineral deposits. The underside of compartment doors often reveals leaks that the exterior hides.

Moisture Meter Readings

Here is where a professional inspection separates itself from a visual walk-around. Your moisture meter is your most important diagnostic tool for the building envelope.

• Pin-type vs. pinless: I carry both. The pinless (capacitance) meter is for rapid scanning. Sweep the walls, floor perimeter, and ceiling in a grid pattern. Any reading above your baseline for that material type gets a pin-type confirmation. Pin-type meters give you actual moisture content percentage.
• Baseline your readings: Take a reading on a known dry area of the same material first. On most RV interior wall panels, a dry reading runs 5 to 8 percent. Anything above 15 percent warrants investigation. Above 20 percent is almost certainly active moisture intrusion.
• Priority scanning areas: Front and rear cap transitions, below every window, around the entry door frame, slide-out floor edges, the bathroom ceiling, and the floor around the toilet base. If you only have time to spot-check, these are where leaks show up most frequently.
• When to use thermal imaging: A thermal camera like the FLIR ONE Pro or FLIR C5 is excellent for identifying moisture patterns behind walls that a surface moisture meter might miss. Thermal is especially useful for large roof areas and for identifying HVAC duct leaks. It is not a replacement for a moisture meter, but it is a powerful complement that speeds up your scanning.

Plumbing System

Pressurize the system and then walk away for five minutes. Come back and listen. If the pump is cycling, you have a leak. That simple test catches more plumbing issues than anything else.

• Water pump test: Turn on the 12V water pump and let it pressurize. It should reach pressure and shut off. Listen for cycling (the pump kicks on for a few seconds, stops, then kicks on again). Cycling means a leak somewhere in the system. Check the pump head and all connections at the pump for drips.
• City water inlet: Connect to external water at 40 to 60 PSI. Check the backflow preventer and inlet check valve. Inspect the connection for drips under pressure. Many older inlets develop leaks around the check valve seat.
• Hot water heater: Check the anode rod condition on Suburban units (pull it and inspect, or at minimum check the last service date). Atwood/Dometic aluminum tank units do not have anode rods but are susceptible to aluminum corrosion. Run both gas and electric heating elements and verify hot water delivery at fixtures. Check the T&P relief valve for proper operation and verify the discharge tube is routed to the exterior.
• Run every fixture: Hot and cold at every faucet. Flush every toilet. Run the shower. Check drain speed at every fixture. Slow drains indicate venting problems or partial blockages. Check under every sink for drips while the water is running.
• Tank level sensors: Fill each tank and verify the monitor panel reads accurately. Tank sensors are the most commonly failed component in RV plumbing. Document their accuracy in your report since most clients will ask about them.
• Low-point drains and winterization valves: Verify they are closed, not dripping, and accessible. Check for evidence of freeze damage (cracked fittings, bulging PEX lines).

Electrical Systems

Electrical faults are a leading cause of RV fires. Take your time here and use your instruments. Visual inspection alone is not sufficient.

12-Volt DC System

• Battery bank: Measure resting voltage with your multimeter. A fully charged 12V lead-acid battery reads 12.6V or higher. 12.4V is roughly 75 percent charged. Below 12.0V, the battery is effectively dead or has a bad cell. For lithium (LiFePO4) banks, fully charged is 13.4 to 13.6V. Check terminal connections for corrosion and tightness. On flooded lead-acid batteries, check electrolyte levels.
• Converter/charger output: With shore power connected, measure the converter output voltage at the battery terminals. A properly functioning three-stage converter should show 13.6 to 14.4V in bulk/absorption mode and drop to 13.2 to 13.6V in float. Single-stage converters (common in older units) run a constant 13.6V. Document the converter make, model, and charging profile.
• 12V circuits: Test every 12V light, vent fan, slide motor, and accessory. Check USB charging ports with a device. Flickering lights indicate loose connections at the fixture or at the fuse/breaker panel. Pull and inspect fuses for correct amperage ratings.

120-Volt AC System

• Shore power inlet: Inspect the inlet for heat damage, arcing marks, melted plastic, or discolored prongs. These are fire hazards. Check the power cord along its full length for cuts, abrasion, or exposed conductors.
• Breaker panel: Remove the panel cover. Check for proper breaker sizing (most RV branch circuits are 15A or 20A). Look for double-tapped breakers, loose wires, aluminum wiring concerns, and any evidence of overheating (discoloration, melted insulation). Verify the main breaker matches the service rating (30A or 50A).
• Outlet testing: Use a three-light circuit tester (like the Klein RT210) at every 120V outlet. Check for open ground, reversed polarity, and open neutral conditions. Test every GFCI outlet with both the tester and the built-in test/reset buttons. GFCI outlets in bathrooms, kitchens, and exterior locations are life-safety devices. Document any that fail to trip or reset.
• Generator (if equipped): Start it, let it warm up for two to three minutes, then measure output voltage under load (run the A/C). Output should be 120V plus or minus 5 percent. Check the hour meter and compare to service records. Inspect the exhaust system for leaks, especially at manifold gaskets. Check oil level, air filter condition, and fuel connections. Listen for bearing noise and abnormal vibration.

Propane (LP) System

Propane leaks are a life-safety issue. Never rush this section, and never skip the leak test.

• Tank certification: Check the date stamp on every tank. DOT cylinders (removable tanks) must be recertified 12 years after manufacture and every 5 years thereafter. ASME tanks (permanently mounted) do not expire but should be inspected for corrosion and damage. Document the certification dates in your report.
• Regulator: Inspect the two-stage regulator for physical damage and corrosion. The vent must face downward and be free of insect nests (dauber wasps love regulator vents). Check the supply pressure with a manometer if you carry one. Second-stage outlet pressure should be 11 inches water column (approximately 0.4 PSI).
• Leak testing: Use an electronic combustible gas detector (like the UEi CD100A) at every fitting, connection, and valve. Start at the tank and work downstream to every appliance connection. Also check with approved leak detection solution (soap and water works, but commercial solutions like Snoop bubble easier). A single confirmed leak means the system must be repaired before use.
• Appliance operation: Light every burner on the cooktop. Flames should be blue with minimal yellow tipping. Check the oven for proper ignition and temperature. Run the furnace through a full cycle and listen for proper ignition sequence (delay, ignitor click, gas valve open, ignition). Run the water heater and refrigerator on gas mode. On the refrigerator, check the burner tube and flue baffle for soot buildup and blockage.
• Interior LP detector: Verify the LP detector is operational (test button) and mounted within 12 inches of the floor. Check its manufacture date. These detectors have a 5 to 7 year lifespan and must be replaced when expired.

Running Gear and Chassis

Get under the unit. Yes, every time. A creeper and good flashlight are non-negotiable here.

Towable RVs

• Frame: Inspect the full length of the frame for rust, cracks, bends, and weld failures. Pay particular attention to the A-frame on travel trailers and the pin box area on fifth wheels. Check cross members and outriggers where the floor structure attaches. Surface rust is cosmetic. Scale rust that flakes when scraped is structural concern. Any crack in a weld or base metal is a red flag.
• Axle and suspension: Check leaf springs for cracks, sagging, and broken leaves. On Dexter and Lippert torsion axles, check the mounting bolts and look for play in the torsion arm. Inspect equalizers, shackle bolts, and wet bolts for wear and looseness. Worn shackle bolts cause axle misalignment and uneven tire wear.
• Wheel bearings: Jack each side and grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock. Rock it in and out. Any perceptible play means bearing service is needed. Spin the wheel and listen for grinding or roughness. Check the bearing buddy or grease cap for proper fill level and evidence of seal leakage (grease on the inner rim indicates a failed inner seal).
• Brakes: On electric drum brakes, pull the drum and measure shoe thickness. Inspect the brake magnet face for wear (the face should be smooth and flat, not grooved or cupped). Check the magnet arm pivot for free movement. Measure drum diameter and compare to the wear limit stamped on the drum. On disc brake setups, measure pad thickness and rotor condition.
• Tires: Check tread depth with a gauge (not the penny test). Minimum safe tread depth is 4/32 inch for trailer tires. Inspect sidewalls for weather checking, bulges, and cracking. Read the DOT date code. Tires older than 5 to 6 years should be flagged regardless of tread depth. Note mismatched brands or sizes across the axle, which indicates replacement history and potential alignment issues.
• Hitch and coupler: Inspect the coupler for wear, cracks, and proper latch engagement. Check safety chains and their attachment points. Test the breakaway switch by pulling the lanyard and verifying brake engagement. Inspect the 7-way connector for bent pins, corrosion, and proper function on all circuits.

Motorhomes

• Engine compartment: Check all fluid levels (oil, coolant, transmission, power steering, brake). Inspect belts for cracking, glazing, and proper tension. Check hoses for swelling, soft spots, and evidence of leaks. Look for fluid stains on the ground beneath the unit.
• Air brakes (diesel pushers): Check air pressure build-up rate (should reach governor cut-out within 3 minutes from 0 PSI on most chassis). Governor cut-in should be approximately 100 PSI, cut-out approximately 120 to 130 PSI. Check the low air warning activation. Inspect air lines and fittings for chafing and leaks.
• Leveling system: Operate the auto-level system through a full cycle. Each jack should extend and retract smoothly. Check for hydraulic leaks at the cylinder seals and at the pump. Inspect jack pad condition and mounting point integrity.

Interior and Appliances

• Floor integrity: Walk the entire floor slowly. Press with your heel at every step. Soft spots, especially around the toilet base, entry door threshold, slide-out floor edges, and under windows, indicate subfloor water damage. This is one of the most expensive repairs on an RV, so document it thoroughly with moisture readings.
• Refrigerator: Test on all available modes (120V AC, LP gas, and 12V DC if equipped). On absorption refrigerators, check the exterior access panel for ammonia stains (yellow residue), which indicate a cooling unit failure. Verify the unit is level during testing since absorption units require near-level operation to function properly.
• A/C performance: Run each unit for at least 10 minutes. Measure the supply and return air temperature differential. A properly functioning RV A/C should produce a 15 to 22 degree Fahrenheit split. Check for unusual odors (musty smell indicates mold in the evaporator) and abnormal noise.
• Furnace: Run through multiple cycles. Listen for proper ignition sequence. Check the exhaust outlet for carbon deposits. Verify the return air is not blocked by storage items or debris. Measure the outlet temperature to confirm the heat exchanger is functional.
• Slide-out operation: Extend and retract every slide. Listen for grinding, popping, or motor strain. On Schwintek systems, watch for the characteristic uneven travel that indicates worn gear tracks. On rack-and-pinion systems, check the gear teeth for wear. On hydraulic slides, check for fluid leaks. With slides extended, check for excessive floor flex and inspect the wiper seals and slide toppers for tears.

Safety Systems

• Smoke detector: Test every unit. Check the manufacture date. Smoke detectors have a 10-year lifespan. Replace recommendations go in the report for any expired unit.
• CO detector: Test and check the expiration date (5 to 7 year lifespan depending on manufacturer). CO detectors are required in all RVs with combustion appliances or attached generators.
• LP detector: Test and check the date. Must be mounted within 12 inches of the floor. Expired detectors are a safety deficiency.
• Fire extinguisher: Check the gauge (must be in the green zone), inspection tag, and manufacture or service date. Verify it is properly mounted and the tamper seal is intact. Dry chemical extinguishers should be replaced or professionally serviced every 6 years.
• Egress window: Operate the emergency exit window. It must open fully without tools and be clearly marked. This is a life-safety item. If it does not open, it goes in the report as a safety deficiency, not a maintenance item.

Building Your Workflow

The checklist is the foundation, but your workflow is what makes it repeatable. The best inspectors I know can complete a thorough inspection in three to five hours because they have eliminated wasted movement and decision fatigue from their process.

WanderWise RV Reports was built to support exactly this kind of systematic workflow. The 190+ inspection points are organized by system in the order you naturally work through them. As you move through the unit, you document findings with photos, the AI generates draft descriptions from your images, and you review and adjust. By the time you climb down from the roof for the last time, your report is 80 percent complete.

Whether you use WanderWise or another tool, the principle is the same: build a process that works, execute it the same way every time, and never let familiarity breed complacency. The unit you have seen a hundred times is the one that surprises you when you stop looking carefully. For more on choosing the right software for your workflow, see our inspection software comparison.